The Perennial Plant Association has chosen Penstemon digitalis `Huskers Red' as the 1996 Perennial Plant of the Year.
        Penstemons, commonly called beard-tongues, are one of the largest groups of wild flowers in the western United States.   There are around 230 species in this genus. The genus Penstemon belongs in the family Scrophulariaceae or snapdragon family. Other familiar genera in this family are Veronica, Verbascum (mullein), Castilleia (Indian paintbrush) and Antirrhinum (snapdragon).
       Penstemon digitalis is native to the open woods, prairies and fields from Iowa to Maine. As a child, I remember digging up this penstemon in a meadow not far from our home in Sioux City Iowa, and bringing it home to show my mother. Unlike a few of the plants that I discovered and brought home, this plant was a nice addition to the perennial border It grew 2 feet tall and had white flowers and dark green foliage 'Husker Red' is a white flowered, red- foliaged form of P digitalis that was selected by Dr. Dale Lindgren at the University of Nebraska. It is a tough garden perennial, valuable as a specimen plant in the newer border. During July and August, when the plants are well established, you can expect as many as 20 or more open and airy flower stalks, each containing 50 or more flowers Even more impressive than all these flowers are the bronze red leaves.
       In the landscape, 'Husker Red' can be massed at the back of the perennial border or combined with ornamental grasses. It also combines well with Delphiniums, Veronica 'Sunny Border Blue', and the soft pink of Geranium 'Biokova'. Like many other plants with reddish foliage, `Husker Red' is effective with silver-foliaged plants like Artemesia'Powis Castle' and Achillea'Moonshine'
     This penstemon prefers full sun to light shade and well-drained (especially inthe winterf soil that is slightly acidic.     The best way to propagate 'Husker Red' is by division in early Spring before the shoots emerge.
     Happy Gardening.
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       Wholesale nurseries grow hybrid tea, floribunda, sub zero, and grandifiora roses in Texas, California and Oregon where the winters are mild. The various cultivars are budded in the fall, and grown in large fields for two or three years. Finally, the mature roses are dug in the Fall and placed in refrigerated cold storage for the Winter. In the Spring the roses are distributed to retail nurseries across the country. In our climatic zone (5 to 4) all of these groups of roses need winter protection.  They are not hardy here.
       Last winter was a mild winter. Some of the hybrid tells with little (straw piled around the plant) or no protection survived. To be prepared for a cold winter if you insist on gambling with your money, try the `Minnesota Tip'. Spray your plants with dormant spray and tie them together with rot resistant twine. From the base of the plant, dig a trench that is the depth and width of the rose. Gently bend the canes of the rose into the trench and cover with soil. Mark the base of the plant with a stake. Tip all of the roses in the bed in the same direction. It will be easier to retrieve them in the Spring. After this phase, the soil should be almost level When cold weather arrives in November, apply a 6 " mulch. Put down mothballs or mouse poison under the mulch In the Spring, around the first of April, remove the mulch When the soil dries, lift the roses, using a spading fork. This method, was developed and tested in Minnesota where winter temperatures are often 40 degrees below zero. Remember, tea, floribunda, subzero and grandiflora roses begin to have winter injury when the temperature falls below 20 degrees above zero, and most likely will die during one of our really cold winters. Any time after October 25th and before the second week in November is a safe time to cover roses.
        Prune roses in mid April, after growth has started. Do not prune roses in the Fall. The height to prune roses depends on the extent of the winter injury and the height you wish to have your roses. Remove any dead or damaged canes, canes that rub against each other and canes that are weak. Good air circulation is encouraged by opening up the center of the plant. If you are sick and tired of your tea roses dying, come out to Holly Gardens and look at some hardy roses for less money that will live in our area without all of the extra hoopla.   Happy gardening
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       I have always had a garden. In the seventies, it was a carpet of fragrant flowers that lined the six foot sidewalk going to my rather grim basement apartment. After a half hour drive in rush hour traffic, I'd get out of the car, walk across the blistering parking lot into my speck of paradise. Surrounded by carnations, heliotrope, alyssum, New Dawn climbing roses, stocks, and geraniums all stress disappeared. When I came home from work the children in the neighborhood would follow me and ask for flowers. They called me the flower lady. My little garden made life in that apartment bearable-even enjoyable.
      In the eighties my garden was a twenty by thirty foot plot of ground behind our rowhouse. The alley behind the rowhouses was full of weeds and trash. I cleaned it up and planted low maintenance shrubs and flowers. At first folks thought I was a bit nuts. "Who's that woman out there cleaning the alley?" It wasn't long before neighbors came to help-the entire alley became a garden.
      Gardens can change your life-uplift you, soothe you, give you something to look forward to. James Rouse, the visionary developer who transformed Baltimore's waterfront and built Faneuil Hall in Boston, understood that pleasant surroundings make people feel special and important.
        It doesn't matter where you live, it's always possible to make it more pleasant. A garden is the logical place to begin.
 Speaking of gardens, mother nature has outdone herself this week. The woods behind our house is full of white serviceberry flowers, mahonia repens is in full bloom, new leaves on quaking aspen are lime green, the forest floor is covered with shooting stars and bright yellow daisies (Arnica). The woods in north Idaho are lovely in all seasons. If you are fortunate enough to acquire wooded property, try to preserve at least part of the native flora.
  Happy gardening.
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Gardening With Toni
 By Toni Hollingsworth

       Over the years I have read many books on gardening. The memorable ones are written by enthusiastic middle aged gardeners-folks who have spent a lifetime in their gardens. Many of the best books are available at the library or, at very reasonable prices, in used book stores. These books are all of timeless information that is helpful for beginning or advanced gardeners.
       The Time Life Encyclopedia of Gardening by James Underwood Crocket, a set of twelve books, is an accurate source of information on every aspect of gardening. It can be used by gardeners all over the country because, unlike many encyclopedias, the zone information is accurate.
        The Fragrant Year by Helen Van Pelt Wilson and Leonie Bell is a magical trip through the scented yards of two dedicated American gardeners.. This is a classic book on fragrant perennials, trees and shrubs-I have never read a better one.
       Annuals and Bedding Plants by Nigel Colborn provides loads of ideas for using unusual annuals and ornamental vegetables in many garden situations.
       The Country Garden by Josephine Nuese is filled with practical ideas for gardening and garden design. This is another classic. Although it is written by a Connecticut gardener from a slightly warmer zone than ours, most of the information is useful here. Other books that help with garden design include: Color In My Garden by Louise Beebe Wilder and Colour Schemes for the Flower Garden by Gertrude Jekyll.
       Making Things Grow by Thalasa Cruso and Crockets Indoor Garden by James Underwood Crocket will answer most questions on the care of houseplants.
       Interesting books for the flower arranger include: Flower Decoration by Constance Spry; Summer and Autumn Flowers by Constance Spry; Shrub Gardening for Flower Arrangement by Sybil Emberton; and Flower Decoration In The House by Gertrude Jekyll.
      When experiencing weed, insect or disease problems in the garden, when a picture is worth a thousand words-The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control by Barbara Ellis and Fern Marshall Bradley; or Weeds of the West by Tom D. Whitson, will have the answer.
       A new book on roses for cold places Lois Hole's Rose Favorites, by Lois Hole has accurate information and superior color photos of the best roses for our area. Lois Hole and her husband own Hole's Nursery in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.
        For vegetable gardeners, The Kitchen Garden Cookbook by Sylvia Thompson suggests fresh ideas on cooking with all kinds of things from the garden. Ms.Thompson, who says " I'm ravenous to taste everything there is to grow and taste-I want to explore all the possibilities of my garden.", has combined her gardening and culinary skills in a fascinating book.
        When reading books on gardening, look up plants that are new to you and pay particular attention to zone information. While we live in plant Zone 5 (five) -20 to -10 degrees, this is a cold dry Zone 5 -more like a warm Zone 4
-30 to -20 degrees. Many broad leafed evergreens listed for Zone 5 ( like Japanese hollies) will not perform well in Boundary County. Generally speaking, plants requiring "deep, rich, moist soil, and or warm temperatures" should be avoided; while plants requiring "well drained, lean soils and cool temperatures" will do well here.
  Happy Gardening!
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By: Toni Hollingsworth
Garden Columnist

       Now that most of the leaves are off the trees, and the first winter storm is on the way, I am beginning to spend more time with my house plants. They are a sturdy bunch. Thirteen years on the road and a husband that hates to water plants has a way of weeding out the faint hearted. They have survived drought, cold, lack of light, layers of dust, and hot air from the baseboard heaters blowing on their leaves. Over the years, plants have come and gone, only the truly rugged remain.
       Certain families of plants are suited to the conditions found in the average home. The Araliaceae or Aralia family have some of my favorites: Fatshedera, an intergeneric cross between Fatsia japonica and English ivy, various varieties of Hedera (ivy), and Schefflera. Fatshedera can survive quite a bit of cold, forty degree temperatures don't hurt it a bit. The same is true of the ivy clan. Train these up over the handles of baskets and place a small pot of seasonal blooming plants in the middle.
       When you think of house plants is the first question that comes into your head, "How often should I water it?" Purchase a few nicely shaped glass vases and some ivy plants. Wash the soil from the roots, place them in the water in indirect sunlight and forget them. Ivy is the perfect plant for you.
      In the Euphorbia family: Euphorbia splendens (Crown of thorns), and Croton 'Aucubaefolium',( a croton with yellow spotted leaves) are two plants that make nice houseplants. Most of the crotons require high humidity and warm temperatures, this is one exception. It will with stand drafty locations and has never had mealy bugs, another problem associated with the more colorful crotons.
       The Liliaceae or Lily family includes many wonderful house plants: Clivia, Chlorophytum comosum, (Spider plant), Dracaena fragrans, Aspidistra (Cast Iron plant), Sanseveria, Pleomele, Yucca, Asparagus `Sprengeri', and Aloe vera. I have never had trouble with disease problems on any of these plants, the secret here is to water them when they are slightly dry to the touch on top. Yes, this means you have to touch the dirt. In the winter plants tend to grow more slowly and to need less water. It depends on how much heat and light they are receiving. Once a week will not work.
       Many members of the Aracea family require warm night temperatures, at least 70 degrees. This group of plants includes many of the best, most disease free and familiar house plants: Philodendron sanguinium, Anthurium, Aglaonema, and the Dieffenbachias, Spathiphylum 'Mauna Loa', Syngonium, Philodendrum oxycardium, Philodendron selloum, and Monstera deliciosa . These plants have never done well for me because our house is cool at night. Pothos and Philodendron oxycardium are the exceptions, they are indestructible and can be grown, like the ivy, in water.
     Happy gardening.
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Gardening with Toni
By Toni Hollingsworth

        We live in a semi-arid part of the country. From June to September there is usually very little rain. This means that annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs require mulching and supplemental watering . This is especially true of new plantings, however all plants benefit from extra water this time of the year.
       When deciding on how many and what kind of plants for your landscape it's a good idea to stop for a minute and think about what kind of water system is available in your area. Do you have to carry water, are you on city water, three mile water or do you have a well.?
         If you are carrying water or have a well that gets low in dry summers, be conservative when purchasing plants-don't plant very many at first and be sure to plant them near your water supply. All plants need initial watering when they are planted and at least the equivalent of one inch of rain a week for  the first two years. When you are carrying buckets of water this becomes a royal pain! If you plant too many they just won't get watered.
        To conserve moisture, spread black plastic between the plants and cover the plastic with bark mulch or sawdust.  Choose drought tolerant shrubs like mugo pines, potentilla, junipers, ninebark, Spirea 'Grefsheim', Rosa rugosa, Harrison's yellow rose, sumac, Nanking cherry, Lewis mockorange, Arnold Red Honeysuckle, buckthorn, dwarf bush-honeysuckle, Oregon Grape holly, mountain mahogany, and caragana. Perennials that perform well in dry conditions include ornamental grasses, lavender, yucca filamentosa, Russian sage, sage, many varieties of thyme, winter savory, balloon flower, Hen and Chicks, sedum Kamshaticum, Sedum 'Autumn Joy', Salvia superba varieties, pincushion flower, gayfeather, German iris, Siberian iris, baby's breath, purple cone flower, Coreopsis verticillata, Snow in Summer, False Indigo and Achillea 'Cerise Queen'. Even these plants require supplemental water the first several years after planting. Plants that are not watered will die.
       Folks that have city water, a good well or three mile water will have an easier time growing plants with high water requirements such as fruit trees, small fruits, roses, hosta , astilbe etc.
       Try to group plants with similar water requirements and remember, life in Boundary County in the summer is much easier if most of your plants are drought resistant.
      Never plant trees or shrubs on newly purchased property when you won't be living there for several years. The plants left after the gophers and deer get through with them will dry up and die in July and August.
       Happy gardening.
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     Did your New Years resolution include a pledge to plant perennials instead of annuals-you love flowers but are tired of spending all the time and money? You want something that comes back every year.
     Perennials do come back every year; however, they must be divided and tended.  A perennial border is definitely maintenance intensive and unlike annuals, most perennials bloom only a few weeks at a time. This means that it takes more space to produce constant flowers. On the other hand, flowering shrubs, when combined with a few perennials and a handful of annuals can give the impression of loads of flowers and require half the work.
     The first step is to choose plants with drought tolerance, a compact growth habit, long blooming season and or interesting foliage.
     Next decide on the colors you want to use in your planting. Choose three colors that you like and repeat them in flowers and foliage. Repetition of color will visually tie the garden together Some color combinations that I have used successfully are: red-orange, blue-violet and yellow-green; lavender, pink and pale yellow; yellow-orange, red-violet and blue-green
      For example, lets make a garden using the first set of colors: red-orange, blue-violet and yellow-green Choose several shrubs for the back of the border and arrange them in groups of three Philadelphus coronarius'Aureus' (Golden Mockorange), with fragrant white flowers in June and yellow-green leaves all summer, is a shrub that would work well at the back of this border as would Caryopteris 'Black Knight', a shrub with blue-violet flowers.
      Between the shrubs, tuck groups of perennial, red-orange lilies : Asiatic lilies or Tiger lilies. Use blue-violet perennials to face down the shrubs and lilies: Salvia'Sunny Border Blue', Delphinium 'Magic Fountains' Dark Blue), Platycodon 'SentimentalBlue', and Catananche caemlea. Red-orange perennials to spot between the blue-violet perennials include: daylilies (there are hundreds to choose from), and Gaillardia'Goblin'. For the front of the border is Alchemilla mollis, a perennial with yellow-green flowers Marigold'Tangerine Gem', Nasturtiums: 'Creamsicle' and 'Whirlybird' Tangerine; or Rudbeckia'Becky' are long blooming annuals to plant with the Lady's Mantle at the front of the border.
      You can play this many ways expand the garden to fill a large space, or use one shrub, several perennials and three annuals for a comer planting There will be colorful leaves and flowers all spring, and summer.  The shrubs and perennials will come back every year. Yearly replacements will be limited to a few market pacs of annuals.   Happy gardening
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       Butterflies make the garden a very special place. Most gardeners think about flowers when planning a butterfly garden. It is important, however,  that your plans include plants that supply food for butterfly larvae. Butterflies are specifically coadapted with native plants. Following are  common butterflies paired with the Boundary County native plants they choose for larvae food. For example: Lorquins admiral and Weidemeyer's admiral- Populus trichocarpa ( black cottonwood) and Populus tremuloides (quaking aspen), Amelanchier (serviceberry), Holodiscus (ocean spray) willow and choke cherry; white admiral-  Betula papyrifera var. occidentalis (Western Paper Birch); sulphurs-willow species, clover and other legumes; black swallowtail-Queen Ann's lace; western tiger swallowtail and pale swallowtail-Alnus,(Alder), Holodiscus (Ocean spray), Amelanchier (Serviceberry), Prunus virginiana (choke cherry); spring azure and Melissa blue- choke cherry,  Cornus stolonifer (red osier dogwood), lupines, alfalfa, clover; Purplish Copper-Potentilla and docks; wood nymph-  native grasses; pearl crescents- asters; Gnaphalium (pearly everlasting), lupine, Malva; monarch- milkweed; fritillary- violet; monarch- milkweed; mourning cloak-willow and aspen.
       Homes circumscribed by forest or wild areas have many plants that are crucial to butterfly survival.  Besides plants for larva, there are plants to supply nectar: yarrow, asters, dogbane, pearly everlasting, Antennaria (pusseytoes), groundsels and ragworts, goldenrod, elderberry, snowberry, white clover, red clover, wild bergamont, Prunella (selfheal), ninebark, chokecherry, pussy willow and countless others.
       To put it another way- gardeners in Boundary County are in the midst of an extensive butterfly garden. This gift from mother nature needs neither weed killers, extra water or fertilizer. Take advantage of  these natural gardens. Protect them and blend them into more manicured areas in the landscape. Let  your lawn (keep it small) flow from the house to the edge of the woods. Where woods meets lawn,  place clumps of ornamental grasses, flowering shrubs or possibly a perennial or annual garden.
        Butterfly caterpillars can be downright ugly, spiny and creepy as can the caterpillars of common garden pests. Learn to distinguish the good from the bad. There are some caterpillars and worms worth squashing or spraying with lime. These include fall web worms,  tent caterpillars, armyworms and the green larvae of the European cabbage butterfly. For pictures of garden pests: The Organic gardener's handbook of natural insect and disease control-Ellis and Bradley.  For pictures of butterfly larvae : The Butterfly Book-Stokes and Williams.  More about butterflies next week.   For further information and pictures of butterfly Larva visit our homepage at www.hollygardens.com. Happy Gardening
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     On a hot afternoon, dappled shade in the aspen grove offers a cool retreat. Several steps into the trees and it's a whole new world fu1l of twisting twirling leaves, changing patterns of light and dark, the soft rustle of leaves. For several years I have been developing this part of our landscape.
      It all started with a group of aspen growing in a patch of weeds. Last summer I got rid of the weeds by covering the ground with black plastic topped with a layer of sawdust. In the fall I planted several varieties of shrubs in the aspen grove: orange and yellow deciduous azaleas, several Russet buffalo berries (Shepherdia canadensis), and one of our native ninebark . The azaleas are blooming now, they add a spicy fragrance as well as a bright spot of color. Russet buffalo berry is one of my favorite native shrubs. It's thick, dark green leaves reflect sunlight and have a subtle, refreshing scent. The ninebark flowers resemble those of bridal wreath and are in bloom now in the woods. Both are drought tolerant and worthy of a place in the landscape.
      This spring, now that the plastic has smothered the weeds, I will plant drifts of various low growing, perennial ground covers: sweet woodruff (Gahum odorata), creeping phlox (Phlox subulata), phlox stolonifera x paniculata'Spring delight', Geranium 'Claridge Druce', Geranium macrorrhinzum.'Spessart' and Aruncus aesthusifolius.
      Sweet woodruff forms a fast growing, 6 to 12" carpet of white star-like flowers and whorled bright green leaves. It is in bloom now in my garden. Blue creeping phlox'Oakington Blue' (8") is especially lovely with aspen foliage as is the bright pink phlox,'Spring Delight' (12-15"). Both do well in light shade. Perennial geraniums perform well in partly shady locations.
      Taller perennials for the grove include Jacob's ladder (Polemonium), ferns, hosta, Astilbe 'Sprite', foxgloves, and bleeding hearts.
   Happy gardening!
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     Every spring I order hundreds of annual, perennial and vegetable seed packets. Over the years I have devised an easy way to file these so the seeds are planted at the correct time. Shoe boxes or saltine cracker boxes make perfect "file cabinets" and white envelopes, cut in half work for the dividers. Label the dividers as follows: "14 weeks," "12 weeks," "10 weeks," "8 Weeks," "6 weeks," "4 Weeks," "2 weeks," "Plant Direct Cool," "Plant Direct Warm,". As your seeds arrive, check the back of the packet to see how many days it takes to grow the seeds before the seedlings can be planted out. For example directions on Thompson and Morgan sunflower seed packets recommend that the seeds be sown outside where they are to grow. That’s fine if you want a row of sunflowers in the vegetable garden but I like to sow sunflowers in band pots and spot them through my perennial gardens. Looking under sunflowers in Parks Culture Guide I find these instructions-"For earlier bloom, sow 2-3 weeks before the last frost" The sunflower packet is filed behind the divider marked "May 29-2 weeks". See the table below.
 

March 6	March 20	April 3	April 17	May 1	May 15	May 29	Plant direct cool	Plant direct warm
14 weeks	12 weeks	10 weeks	8 weeks	6 weeks	4 weeks	2 weeks
Leeks	Parsley	Carnation	Snaps	Godetia	Alyssum	Basil	Beets	beans
Broccoli	Broccoli	Scabiosa	Nicotiana	Candytuft	Zinnea	Lettuce	Radish	Corn
pansy		Lavender	Petunia	Dianthus		marigold	Carrots	Squash
Eggplant		Tomato	Onions	Tithonia		sunflower	Peas
Peppers			red cabbage	cucumbers			leeks
Cauliflower							5/10 Brussel
							Sprouts

      These labels refer to the number of weeks each type of seed takes to grow before the last frost date in your area.. The backs of most seed packets have this info-if they don’t, get a copy of Park’s Seed catalog and refer to the Index, Germination and Culture guide in the center of the catalog.
       Here at the nursery on the North Bench, I figure the last killing frost in the Spring to be around June 6^th . This can vary depending on the year and location. Last summer there was frost on July Fourth! Customers who garden in cold pockets like Curly Creek, Montana line, Coplands, Port Hill and Highland Flats can experience frost later than June 6^th. Look at the mountains-if there is still snow expect more frost.

      An easy way to sow seeds is to use 2 ¼" square plastic pots and plant one variety of seed in each pot. Fill the pots two thirds full with moist, sterile potting soil (Metro Mix or any peat and perlite mix). Top up with around one inch of vermiculite, it should come to ¼ inch below the rim of the pot. Put a label in the pot and sow the seeds as follows: sprinkle small seeds like snapdragons on the surface; place larger seeds like pansies, salvia and stocks on the surface and stir slightly to bury them. Place large seeds like tomato lupine hollyhock and marigold on the surface and cover with a thin layer of vermiculite. Place the pots in shallow plastic trays, water and cover with a clear plastic dome lid or plastic wrap or polystyrene. The covering insures a humid atmosphere essential for seed germination.

      Some seeds require darkness to germinate. Place all of these in a separate tray and cover with a towel. Bottom heat is nice if you have it, however it is not required. This time of year I germinate most of my seeds by placing the trays by a sunny window in a room with 68 to 70 degree temperatures during the day and 55-60 degrees at night. Peppers require extra warmth-a friend of mine places hers in the warming oven of her cook stove. I use a heating pad set at 75 degrees.

     Remove each pot (variety) of seed as it germinates and place it six inches below grow lights. Since each variety of seed is in a different pot there is no need to disturb seeds that haven’t germinated.

     A 2 ¼ pot of snaps may have 25-50 seedlings. When their seed leaves are fully expanded and the plants are easy to handle (in about 6 weeks) , turn the pot on its side, tap the edge of the pot on a hard surface to dislodge the media and the plants. Do not attempt to dig out the seedlings while they are in the pot. With the entire contents of the empty pot in front of you, gently separate the seedlings and move them into separate pots or into flats.
Happy gardening

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                                     Yaak Getaway Garden-Good luck!--- Zone 3

    Shrubs
    Potentilla fruticosa-1-4’shrub, yellow flowers all summer

    Harison’s Yellow rose
    Mass plantings in the sun, grows 4-5’ tall, fragrant 2” flowers cover the plant in late spring.
    Viburnum lantana

    Uses: Informal hedge, screen or mass planting, specimen plant. Thick spreading branches form a
    rounded profile 10’ tall and 12 feet wide. White flowers in the sppring and berries for the birds in the
    fall. Sun to part shade. Red leaves in the fall

    Syringa oblata ‘Cheyenne’
     Lilac that is resistant to deer browsing

     Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac
    8’ tall, suckering shrub that is drought and cold tolerant-good resistance to deer, great orange-red Fall
     color.

    Prunus virginiana Chokecherry
    Flowers in the spring, fruit in summer, good fall color. Large shrub or small tree. Canada Red cherry
    is a cultivar with purple  leaves.

    Prunus besseyi Western Sand Cherry

    Dwarf Blue arctic Willow Mass planting in the sun

    Perennials and Ground Covers
   Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Bear Berry - Three to six inch ground cover-evergreen
    Antennaria rosea Pink pussy Toes-4-12 inches
   Iceland Poppies
   Foxgloves
   Siberian Iris
   Sedum spectabile 18-24” rounded plant with great texture, showy late summer flowers
 
   Herbs
   Sage
    Parsley
    Thyme
    Chives
  
    Annual flowers
    Coreopsis
    Cosmos bipinnatus
    Lavatera
    Nasturtium
    Cornflower
    Pansies
    Violas
    Snapdragons